Thoughts on Stitching

Now that the hull is stored in a manner that allows me to quickly move it into and out of storage, I'm back to construction.  Today, I finished installing the stitches and began taking up slack in places where the seams were gapping too much.  I also screwed the seats in place (temporarily), as they're integral in shaping the hull as well. The rear seat really didn't seem like it was going to fit, but I used a clamp to bring the hull into alignment with it and it worked out.  Gradually, as I installed and tightened the stitches along the open seam, it closed up and took the shape it should have.

So, with the hull shape coming together nicely, I thought I'd collect a few lessons I've learned about stitching for the benefit of other builders.  Here they are, in no particular order:

• Wire stitching hurts.  The wire ends are sharp, and spaced closely enough that it's hard to avoid occasional scratches.  My hands look like I've been teaching a knitting class for feral cats.  
• I notice that a lot of photos from pro builders show zip ties rather than wire.  Presumably, that's because wire hurts.  But it's also stronger than zip ties are, and cheaper if you're salvaging waste wire from construction sites.
• If you're salvaging wire, you can remove it from its insulation with a knife blade.  Set the wire on a cutting board or work bench; press it in place with a sharp, strong blade angled to cut along the wire.  Pressing the knife against the cutting board, pull the wire past the knife rather than pushing the knife through the wire.  It's a vastly more efficient way to do it.
• If you're going to use zip ties, you might want to get a "fourth hand" tool (shown).  It's a bike tool designed to pull on cable while you adjust brakes; I discovered when working at bike shops that it's also great for tightening zip ties. 
• Zip ties would require larger holes than wire, so there would be a bit more filling required after you're done.  I've seen some builders complain about this.
• A single stitch point isn't strong enough to hold the hull shape near the twisty parts.  I tore a couple stitch points out trying to move the partially-assembled hull when those wires were all alone at that end.  I should have waited - all of the stitches, working together, are strong enough to prevent that problem.
• The plans mention a "pull, twist, pull, twist" rhythm for tightening stitches.  This works great.  But the best way I've found to pull is to lever my pliers against the hull, which occasionally gouges the ply there.  You might want a putty knife to place between the pliers and hull, to spread out the force of your prying pliers.
• If you're trying to close a gap, remember that no one stitch can do it alone.  (Remember, the individual stitches aren't that strong?)  Work along the line of stitches, one at a time, and watch the gap disappear gradually without stressing any stitch excessively.
• If you do pull a stitch through, you can either redrill holes slightly to the side, or use clamps instead of wire at that spot, depending on the shape you're dealing with.
• The beauty of stitch & glue construction is the flexibility of the hull during the stitching phase.  Take the time to get it right - aligned, symmetrical, perfect -- because once you start filleting, you're locking that hull shape in forever.
• And finally....  I've always fantasized about building in welded sheet aluminum.  I think you could stitch & weld just as easily, and skip a lot of epoxy coating.  If I ever build a larger boat, I'll be tempted to try it.

That's all for now.  Weather permitting, I'll put some more time in tomorrow and maybe be ready to start filleting by the end of the day.